*2024 Red Wine of the Year – Tim Atkin MW

The incremental growth of Mourvdre, Carignan, Cinsaut and Tinta Barocca in the final blend has contributed much to the depth and complexity of tannins. The fruit purity has also been lifted with remarkable freshness on the palate. At 13.2% abv, this sounds like the kind of Columella I would absolutely devour!

99TAThis is the lightest bodied Columella ever, according to Eben Sadie, but hes not lost any concentration or intensity at the lower alcohol level. Sourced from 12 different vineyards, seven of which are on the Paardeberg, this features components from slate, gravel, granite and sandstone soils and is a brilliant vintage of one of the worlds greatest reds. Partnering Syrah, Mourvdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault, Tinta Barocca and Pinotage, this is an almost indecently perfumed cuve with lilac, fynbos and rose petal aromas, plum, red cherry and blackberry fruit, subtle 5% new wood and a focused, grippy, stony finish. Wonderful stuff. 2025-40

95VMThe 2022 Columella has the lowest alcohol level ever bottled for this cuve, at 13.2%. It is a blend of Syrah, Mourvdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca. This takes time to open on the nose and is quite introspective at first, gently unfurling scents of potpourri, undergrowth and brambly red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Theres a real a sense of symmetry and focus herea much “cooler” Columella than older vintages, with a sapid finish that urges you back for another sip. Eben Sadie said he would finish the rest of the bottle the night after my tastingI can see why.

Winemaking:Hand sorting of individual berries of the entire production in small strawberry cases. Fermentation takes place spontaneously in 3300 litre open concrete fermenters for about three weeks at a temperature of 24 C and is then followed by a post-fermentation maceration of another three weeks. No additions are made to the fermenting wine. Pressing takes place in a traditional basket press and the wine is transferred to the barrel (5% new) for malolactic fermentation. The wine spends 12 months on the lees in tight-grain French oak barrels, just 5% of them new, and is then racked into big oval casks (foudres) for an additional year of maturation on the fine lees. After two years the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Winery: This 2022 Columella vintage displays floral aromas, and the bright, fresh fruit aromas carry over into oriental spicey aspects that then meet up with deepened earthy dynamics. Over time, the trademark violets and perfumes will develop further; the wine is very compact. The acidity at the end of the palate and the overall tannin are very well-placed, and the overall balance of the wine is terrific. The first thought that comes to mind is that it is a classic vintage, with most aspects being textbook. This 2022 vintage is also the lowest alcohol we ever achieved on the blend at 13,2 %. The wine needs time.