17.5/20 Jancis Robinson

The Brajkoviches 3.37-ha vineyard was replanted in 2001 with clone 15.Made in the same way as Coddington and hand-picked over the Feb/Mar bridge.Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation. 100% barrel-fermented in used French oak. 100% malo and 11 months maturation in barrel.Very settled, complex nose. Savoury finish and probably the most burgundian of these Chardonnays. Lemon syrup (not sweet) impression with a light blossomy top note. Real substance and build. It certainly doesnt seem skinny, despite the lower-than-usual alcohol and has a mineral chewiness on the finish. More elegant, and more citrus, than the Mats. JR