93+ pts Wine AdvocateMarked on the nose by subtle herb and floral notes, the cherry-scented 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is medium to full-bodied in the mouth, framed by firm tannins that promise a long evolution. Thankfully, the tannins are ripe and silky on t
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93+ pts Wine Advocate
Marked on the nose by subtle herb and floral notes, the cherry-scented 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is medium to full-bodied in the mouth, framed by firm tannins that promise a long evolution. Thankfully, the tannins are ripe and silky on the finish, where that dusty quality is joined by attractive hints of licorice. It’s a classic Spring Mountain Cab, capable of 20 years of cellaring. Drink Date: 2028 – 2045
Smith-Madrone Winery is a reminder of Napa’s pioneering past. Founded by 22-year-old graduate student Stuart Smith in 1971, on the site of a former vineyard dating back to the 1880s, it’s largely hand-built by Smith and his brother, Charles. Stuart was pursuing a master’s degree in viticulture at UC Davishe was a teaching assistant to both Maynard Amerine and Vernon Singletonwhen he was shown the 200-acre forested property on Spring Mountain and discovered remnants of redwood stakes and a grove of olive trees amid the treesboth relics of the land’s history.
Together with Charles, who joined him at the property in 1972, the pair cleared the land and planted grapesfive acres each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Riesling. They also planted some Pinot Noir at that time, but it was budded over to Chardonnay in 1986. Cabernet Franc and Merlot were added in 1998 and Petit Verdot in 2007. Over time, the area under vine has gradually expanded to cover 38 acres, at elevations ranging from 1,300 to 2,000 feet above sea level.
The current lineup focuses on the three original varieties, although the brothers have added a high-end red known as Cook’s Flat Reserve, a tribute to George Cook, who planted the first grapevines on the property during the 1880s. From time to time, library wines are released to the mailing list, so I have included reviews of some older vintages I had the opportunity to taste during my visit. The current release 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (87+, $65) and 2019 Chardonnay (90, $45) were reviewed in July 2024. I had the opportunity to retaste them during my visit, but I haven’t published new reviews of those wines here, as I found them much as previously described.
For adventurous spirits, visits to the property are possible on certain days of the week (check their website or contact the winery for details). The rough-hewn setting makes an interesting contrast to the wine-country chic and over-the-top luxury settings visitors will find at many wineries, and the wines will likely be poured by one of the Smith brothers or perhaps associate winemaker Franois Bugu.
Published:Oct 17, 2024
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