90pts Vinous
A whiff of lemon oil mixes with sweet mint and crushed rocks as the 2024 Etna Bianco opens in the glass. This is juicy and playful in feel with ripe melon and a cascade of inner florals that swirl throughout. It leaves a salty sensation and nuances of candied citrus on the wickedly fresh finish.Drinking Window: 2025-2027

– ByEric GuidoonMay 2025

Leave it to Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere to take what many consider a difficult, lower-quality vintage and turn out a lineup of wines that exceeded expectationsand left this taster in awe. Interestingly, when I asked many producers how they adapted their winemaking in a challenging year like 2023, the most common answer was: We didnt change anything. Thats a disappointing reality at many estates, but not here. De Grazia described 2023 as the most difficult vintage hes experienced on Etna. Spring rains totaling around 400 millimeters triggered a devastating outbreak of downy mildew, cutting yields by up to 70% on the northern slopes. The eastern side was largely spared, which helps explain the strength of Terre Neres whites. The wet spring gave way to a hot, drought-stricken summer, leading to thicker skins and uneven ripening, as many vines shut down under hydric stress. Fortunately, light rains in September and ideal conditions through October helped save the harvest. The team responded with intense selection in both vineyard and cellar, followed by shorter macerations and minimal pumpovers. The resulting 2023s in bottle are some of the most exotic, finessed and elegant wines Terre Nere has ever produced. They deliver immense pleasure, but in some cases, such as the San Lorenzo, they reach a new level of depth and texture.

91pts Wine Advocate (2023 score, 2024 NYR)
A blend of 70% Carricante, 20% Catarratto, 5% Grecanico and 5% Inzolia, the Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2023 Etna Bianco sees stainless steel only and represents a mix of estate and purchased fruit. Production is an ample 100,000 bottles. This is a simple and very transparent expression that reveals the character of the volcano with elegant flintiness and minerals. Beyond those saline aromas are plusher tones of white peach and honeydew melon that spread out over the mid-palate. The winemaking is incredibly clean.

Marco de Grazia and his team have recently completed a new barrel cellar dedicated exclusively to the aging of the Etna Rosso.

Published:Apr 17, 2025